Now that I’m getting settled into Aix-en-Provence, I’m thinking more about my daily routine, and especially food. Aix has a population of around 148,000 inhabitants, which is 1/14th the size of Paris. Keeping this in mind, I wasn’t sure what I was going to find in terms of friendliness to vegetarians. Smaller European towns tend not to have the best reputation in this field. But once I started exploring, I was pleasantly surprised! 

Grocery Stores 

My first stop for food after moving into my apartment was my local Monoprix, which is like a French version of Target in that they sell a little bit of everything. In this Monoprix, the groceries were on the basement level, with home goods, clothing and cosmetics on the ground and upper floors. I made sure to stock up on pasta, rice, and lentils, and grabbed some cans of chickpeas and black beans. I also found a large selection of dairy-free milks, including some with added flavors. And, of course, there’s a selection of produce. 

Tofu and meat substitutes at a big chain grocery store 

At Utile, a smaller chain store, I picked up some “fake meat” alternatives like vegan “chicken” nuggets and “meat”balls. These can be an easy way to add some protein to a meal, but the price will be a lot steeper than, say, a bag of dried lentils. Tofu is in grocery stores, but you might have to put some effort into finding it, and they might only have a couple of types. 

Besides the typical grocery stores, Aix also has markets! There is a daily farmer’s market with fresh produce, and a larger market with textiles and flowers as well as food three times a week. At a market you can often taste test the wares before you buy a portion. Items are labeled with their contents, so you can clearly tell a cheese and potato option from a meat one. And if you’re not sure, you can ask. Is this vegetarian? Does this contain meat? 

Vegetarian lazy dinner finds 

Dining Out 

It’s easy to find vegetarian options at restaurants when seemingly everyone in the city has their menu available outside for you to check out before you commit to a table or walk up to the counter. Some of these helpfully have a symbol for vegetarian or vegan plates, like you might commonly find on a menu in the US. Some plates are naturally meatless, like a Margherita pizza. Others, you might have to ask about. At one restaurant I visited with my CEA CAPA cohort, an employee told us that they could make anything vegetarian and so I received a dish that was nominally the same as the person next to me, but without the chicken. The downside of this approach is you might end up paying more for less. 

And one thing Aix has plenty of: cafés. Any time you want a snack, you can find a croissant, cup of tea, cappuccino, or pastry. Something to keep in mind is that if you’re only paying for one or two items, the shopkeepers might ask you to pay with cash, to avoid credit card fees. Keep a couple euros on hand for a pain au chocolat emergency. 

School Meals: Bringing and Buying 

When it comes to eating lunch at the university I’m attending this semester, I found there were three logical options: pack your own, go to a nearby convenience store, or visit the school cafeteria. If you want to bring your own food, you can pack it in a bag or container or wrap it in cloth/plastic/aluminum and find somewhere to sit inside or outside at a table or on the steps. To heat food, there’s a shared microwave in the cafeteria. Bringing your own food is going to be the best option if you don’t have a lot of time between classes. You also might be able to find vending machines with snacks—healthy-ish ones as well as candy—and drinks, including cheap coffees. 

This school lunch may not have terrific plating, but it was more flavorful than most of my U.S. dining hall meals 

Conveniently located right next to Aix Marseille University’s campus in Aix is a Franprix convenience store with both pre-heated and refrigerated lunch options, like quiches and sandwiches. On my first visit, I opted for a croque veggie, which was a pesto grilled cheese inspired by the popular croque monsieur sandwich. This Franprix also sells snacks, drinks, and school supplies. 

In addition, the school cafeteria offers meals at a discounted student price if you show proof of enrollment. My cafeteria in Aix has appetizers, main plates, desserts, and drinks, and there is always a clear label for what is vegetarian and what has major allergens. The meals here are delicious, fresh, and warm. Your appetizer could be a bite of brie and your dessert could be a mille-feuille cake. 

Be forewarned: Both the cafeteria and the convenience store have long lines at the usual lunch times. They move quickly, but I’d say you need at least half an hour between classes to be able to make use of these options. 

Brie cheese appetizers at the cafeteria 

Apartment Cooking 

When it comes to cooking food, be advised your apartment kitchen might be very small! Mine does not have an oven, but it does have a toaster oven and a microwave, as well as a stovetop. I am able to quickly boil water for pasta and rice, and store leftovers in a fridge. I also made eight breakfast burritos at once and put them in the freezer for when I need them. I brought one Tupperware container with me and bought aluminum foil at the grocery store for food storage. You can also find reusable containers at stores here. In addition, my apartment building has a “free store” in the lobby where people, especially students, can take or leave home goods. If yours has something similar, that could be a great place to look for second-hand cooking tools and accessories.